BY JULIE WEBB-PULLMAN
HAVANA Shortly before dawn on June 12, I joined the throngs pouring through my central Havana neighbourhood to gather on the Malecon, before marching on the Spanish embassy to protest against the recently released European Union statement against Cuba.
The march was called late afternoon on June 11. June 12 was declared a public holiday, and the two million residents of La Habana were invited to march on either of the Spanish or Italian embassies to make known their views. The residents were not commanded, not coerced, but invited.
More than a million people, out of La Habana's 2 million residents, chose to march to the embassies. And if my apartment building is anything to go by, the majority of those who chose to stay out of the blazing heat watched it all on television!
From the moment I first heard the sound of people in the street footsteps, laughter, talking and joking I knew this was going to be a demonstration like no other I had ever experienced. Although I was clearly not Cuban, I was treated with warmth, friendliness, and respect by all.
The most stunning revelation, as I stood on the sea wall along the Malecon and saw people stretching for miles in either direction, was the almost total lack of police. No squads of riot police with shields and batons at the ready, no armed police on horseback ready to trample protesters, no water cannons, no snarling dogs just 10 or 15 police at the very end of the march, standing outside the Spanish embassy, and a couple along the way.
Instead of police, there was a strong sense of community commitment and responsibility. Some marchers were in wheelchairs no-one was pushing or shoving despite the huge numbers. The biggest threat to safety was bumping into an umbrella, or getting sunburnt.
There were stretchers along the way, as well as medical personnel, and a Cuban Red Cross tent, although I didn't see anyone in need of, or receiving, medical attention.
The mood was inspired and inspiring; people of all ages, sizes and colours united in defence of their socialist revolution; of their freely chosen, popular, and highly respected government and president; and of their right to sovereignty and self-determination.
For a country that is supposed to lock up all its independent journalists, there were plenty on the streets: international, local and thousands of people with cameras and video recorders. The International Press Centre, about the only place open for business, was flat-out after the four-hour march processing endless rolls of film. None were censored.
I was extremely proud, and humbled, to see this proud and dignified exhibition of what it is to be Cuban strong, united, tolerant, intelligent, aware, assertive, fun, expressive, caring and committed.
I am more convinced than ever, that no amount of sanctions, blockades, measures, invasions or occupations will kill the Cuban spirit but never before has Cuba been under such a concerted attack from so many quarters. The EU statement may be the first salvo in a renewed attack let us make sure it is the last.
From Green Left Weekly, June 25, 2003.
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